Cannes Beyond the Croisette: The Local’s Guide to France’s Most Misunderstood City

The Cannes Film Festival is why I want to both debunk this city — I call it the Vegas of France for a reason — and share all the amazing gems that made me fall in love with this under-appreciated small French town on the Mediterranean.

Why is it underappreciated? Because the Vegas-like glitz of the festival makes people think of Cannes as only that — a movie festival town where the world’s hotshots roll in, hang on the strip, and parade their ostentatious yachts, cars, and clothes up and down the Croisette. And that’s it, apparently. (I mean it has that lol, but it’s also way more! Monaco this is not.)

People. Anything French has the bones of magic and gorgeousness, even when you can’t see it beyond the headlines. That’s why travel is crucial, you learn more than “they” want to share. Cannes is gorgeous, delicious, and charming — though I would suggest avoiding those Vegas-like establishments and their people, lol. You can spot them easily, mes stars.

And while I do love French train stations this one is wildly disappointing lol, so if you haven’t seen many of them, don’t let this one mislead you. So many are gorgeous and charming just – shockingly! – not this one.

Cannes Both Gets And Doesn’t Deserve It’s Rep

My advice: don’t go during the festival. And definitely not in high summer when the crowds are relentless. But off season? Cannes is an entirely different animal — and a magnificent one. Still warm and gorgeous and full of delights.

That said, like Vegas, having a drink at one of those grand Croisette hotels and doing some world-class people watching is genuinely fun. The locations are prime, the sunsets are ridiculous, and the theater of it all is worth an hour of your time. Just know what you’re walking into. Many of these spots felt to me like a Beverly Hills hotel lobby crossed with Miami — hence Vegas lol – but in any event not what you came to France for. But c’est la vie. If you want small and charming, head down the water in either direction to some town you think you’ve vaguely heard of. That will be the France you dreamed of and saw in old films.

Off season travel is a gem and going to incredible spots like Cannes when the crowd has cleared will yield you more beauty, more fun, and infinitely more charm. Je te jure — I swear in French, lol. It’s a completely different vibe. An awesome waitress at Le Club 55 in St. Tropez said it best: “Girl, you have to come on these dates. It’s all the fun and none of those people.” Getting in with the staff and locals is always the move, mes stars. Sincerity and friendliness is how you make holiday magic. Always.

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Why Cannes Off Season Is the Best Kept Secret on the Côte d’Azur

Walking this town on the Côte d’Azur — going to the flea markets, wandering the winding streets full of delicious food and charming shops (yes, there are hills here!), chatting with locals who tell you exactly where to go — you will be completely charmed and understand immediately why Cannes is a cultural capital of the south of France. The Croisette off season had me genuinely in love with this city. Away from the festival rush, it’s a different world entirely.

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Top Flea Markets in Cannes — Where Locals Actually Shop

I have written about my Paris Flea Market tips but honestly this town has my second favorite weekly ones in all of France. (I am slowly making my way through as many as possible lol!)

There are two I have to hit every time I’m here because they yield extraordinary finds in incredible settings.

The first is just off the water at 1 Allée de la Liberté — a large open-air market with art, glassware, ceramics, furniture, clothing, and all manner of wonderful things. Prices are way lower than Paris (and even my beloved Vanves flea market). I found cut crystal glasses for a euro each. It may be Cannes, but the locals and these markets remind you immediately that you are in a small French town.

The second is Marché Forville — a covered old market space that runs most days of the week with fish, meat, vegetables, flowers, and on certain days, vintage treasures. It’s just around the corner from the Allée de la Liberté market, steps from the Croisette because this is downtown Cannes. Books, art, objects — and because it’s covered, it has you sorted whether it’s blazing hot, raining, or cool. I found some extraordinary art here from a 1960s local St. Tropez artist that screams vintage Mediterranean summer. You can find the Frenchiest of things in these small town markets.

Look online to confirm days and times because France, lol.

And do not forget to check out VideGreniers.com — the French flea market finder app that will genuinely change your travels for the better. You’re welcome.

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The Îles de Lérins: Cannes’ Secret Islands Worth the Ferry Ride

A short ferry ride from Cannes sits some of the most gorgeous small islands I’ve ever visited. Bring a picnic, hike, swim, and marvel at the natural beauty — ridiculously green-blue water, centuries-old structures, and pure wildlife and nature. Next to the islands off my home state of Massachusetts and Capri, these are among my absolute favorites in the world.

The history here is extraordinary. Alexandre Dumas shaped some of his most famous stories around these waters — the legend of the Man in the Iron Mask has its roots here. A man was kept prisoner for decades by order of the king, his face hidden behind an iron mask, in a fort on the island you can visit today. The 1998 film with Leonardo DiCaprio brought the story to a new generation, but standing in front of that fort in person is something else entirely.

There is also an underwater ecomuseum just offshore — six underwater statues designed by artist Jason deCaires Taylor, each two meters high, both a reminder of history and a contribution to the marine environment. An incredible thing to explore if scuba diving is your thing. Vegas could never.

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Le Suquet: The Medieval Neighborhood Cannes Doesn’t Put on the Brochure

This medieval neighborhood above the harbor is completely worthy of your time and your shoes. Walk the charming streets lined with old homes, shops, and businesses dotted with art evoking French cinema legends, and you’ll stumble upon an old fort whose doors demand a photograph and a deep dive into history.

The Tour du Masque — the Tower of the Mask — sits in this area and is worth the walk. If you love history and mysteries it will absolutely peak your interest, like moi. The darker chapters of a place’s history don’t always make it onto the travel brochures, but they can’t be ignored. I found it accidentally, of course, lol. (And yes it links to the mention above.)

The views of the water from Le Suquet are extraordinary, as well as Cannes below. Come for the views, stay for the history you didn’t expect to find.

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Don’t Forget to Gelato in Cannes

For a small town there are some serious gems. Don’t miss the small independent gelato shops — they do it right down here. Wander until you find one that looks like it’s been there forever. It probably has. Tell me your favorite when you go.

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Why You Should Wander Cannes and Let the Locals Lead

The old main streets at night is how we chose our restaurant on my last visit — and it worked perfectly. The owners were locals who spent much of the year at their other home in Tahiti, preferring the nature and pace. They preferred it to high-season Cannes, they said, because Cannes skews more nouveau riche than just riche. The food was delicious and because it was just slightly off season, it felt like that old town vestige you yearn for in the south of France.

The conversations you’ll have with locals as you dine — if you make the effort to be sincere and curious about their town — will be the best parts of your trip. Those restaurant owners won’t be there during high season because they know better than to be around during the chaos. Off season traveling is where it’s at. If the locals leave during peak season, that tells you everything you need to know.

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So — what do you love most about Cannes? And where are your favorite off-season spots? Tell me below. And if you’re heading there for the festival — enjoy the spectacle. Just maybe step off the Croisette for an afternoon (or your whole trip lol). You won’t regret it.

Bisous mes stars 💎