Marseille Travel Guide: Journalist’s Notebook on Why It’s the Best City in France (I Don’t Make the Rules)

Discover why France’s oldest city, with its sun-drenched coast, pizza dapertutto, and history deeper than Paris’s pockets, is truly the country’s best-kept secret.

Marseille: The Mediterranean Dream You Didn’t Know You Needed

From the moment I stepped out of Marseille’s glorious train station, I knew I had arrived somewhere special. The view that greets you is both breathtaking in its scope and deeply intimate. The architecture says “France,” but the vibe is also very Italian—my favorite. So yes, points for that. And points again for the abundance of good pizza dapertutto(everywhere).

Marseille is a city of beauty, deliciousness, and layered history. It is that very history that makes it unique—not just in France, but in all of Europe. For me, that makes it not just the most interesting French city, but the best.

France’s Oldest City Isn’t Really French (and That’s Why It’s Great)

Here’s a hot take: how the French treat Marseille proves it isn’t really a French city—not in spirit. Marseille was founded in the 6th century BCE by the Greeks, making it France’s oldest city and one of Europe’s oldest trading ports. Yes, older than “Europe.”

And yet, French officials have historically treated it like a second-class major city. The football team may be second in the country (not to me!), but Marseille’s infrastructure clearly isn’t prioritized. The trains are ancient—charming, sure, but neglected. When I visited pre-Olympics, the city was getting a much-needed refresh, but its age and wear told a very clear story. And no, the work done then doesn’t suffice.

Meanwhile, the French national anthem is La Marseillaise. Yes, named after this very city. So they acknowledge its importance… while conveniently ignoring it? Odd, non?

“In 1792, the city became a focal point of the French Revolution, and though France’s national anthem was born in Strasbourg, it was first sung in Paris by volunteers from Marseille—hence the name the crowd gave it: La Marseillaise.”

It’s a country made up of many people with varied cultural history, something this songs genesis, and Frances location, embodies. It’s something to be celebrated, not obscured.

Marseille on My Vision Board (Naturally)

I went to Marseille because it had been on my vision board (lol, natch) and because, um, how had I never been? It’s a major city, perched on the Mediterranean, with both Italian, Greek, and North African influences baked into its history and streets. I didn’t even realize how deep that Italian, Greek and North African history ran until I arrived cuz the food, delish!

The city’s origin name? “Massalia,” founded by Greeks from Phocaea. Depending on who you ask, that name either means “spring” (from Ligurian roots) or “further sea” (from Ancient Greek). Either way, it’s ancient. And meaningful. It’s all soul.

Parisians, Let’s Talk

Now, full disclosure: I didn’t hear many glowing reviews about Marseille while living in Paris. “Why go there?” “It’s dirty.” Sound familiar? But that “dirty” felt like coded language to me—because let’s be honest, a lot of the disdain is rooted in racism, nationalism, and classism. If the government refuses to invest in infrastructure and upkeep, what do you expect?

To call Marseille “dirty” while ignoring its socioeconomic and cultural makeup is to miss the point. And miss the beauty. And is keeps the isms going. Basta!

Alexandre Dumas and the Power of Place

Like all good travel, Marseille slowly revealed herself to me. One of the most surprising connections? Alexandre Dumas—my forever fave (yes, his work and that fated December 5 link we share). I had no idea that The Count of Monte Cristo was based just off the coast here. (We love learning!)

Cue me booking a ferry to Château d’If, which quickly became a highlight of not just my Marseille trip, but my entire time in France. The ferry is easy, the views stunning, and the island itself a haunting, unforgettable place. Dumas didn’t just spin a revenge tale; he wrote about nationalism, racism, and colonialism—topics I definitely didn’t get in my top-tier education when reading him. Visit hit place makes it so clear: WTF France (and colonial places.)

To visit Marseille without engaging with its travelers and immigrant history is to erase its greatness. And we’re not doing that around here.

Dumas knew what he was doing. His choice of setting says everything about France’s layered, messy history. And being there, walking those rocks, sitting where he once imagined and created, I felt an emotional closeness that truly shocked me.

From Hemp to History: La Canebière and Beyond

Marseille’s main street, La Canebière, is named after the Latin canebe, meaning “hemp.” This place was a major hemp trading port in the Middle Ages and beyond. The irony of this plant-linked past and the city’s rebellious spirit and current review of this herb? Delicious.

The whole city is full of contradictions like that. And that’s what makes it incredible. (Dumas been knowing!)

So… Should You Visit Marseille?

Let me say it clearly: YES. Go.

It’s gorgeous. It’s delicious. It’s rich in history.

You’ve got daily fresh markets and fishmongers on the pier. Cinema buffs will recognize spots from Love Actually. You can wind through artisan-filled streets, eat everything from Algerian pastries to fresh French seafood, and dip your toes into arguably the best urban beaches in France.

(And yes—be street smart. Marseille is a working city where many people are navigating real economic challenges. Do not flaunt wealth, jewels, or flashy behavior. It’s not just about safety—it’s about respect. Be mindful of where you are and who you are among. Travel with humility, and the city will meet you with generosity.)

The people are diverse, vibrant, and real. I was tipped off by a journalist friend to try a savory crêpe—think North African influence, not the typical Parisian stuff. And do not skip the neighborhoods filled with North African shops and bakeries. Just trust me.

Explore, Then Escape (Cassis, Anyone?)

Marseille is also the perfect base for day trips. Cassis is a short ride away and offers some of France’s most stunning beaches. Parc National des Calanques as well. And don’t forget enjoying Bandol wine in Bandol! You could stay put, but I highly recommend bouncing around. Marseille isn’t that huge of a city anyway, so nearby towns aren’t hard to get to (train or bus) and don’t take much time.

It’s kind of like Boston vs. New York (yes, I’m a Boston girl so I’m biased lol). Both cities have their magic. But France needs to start investing in Marseille the way it deserves.

As global citizens, we all deserve access to its treasures. But to do that, we first need to know they exist.

A Few Final Marseille Tips

• Walk up to Notre-Dame de la Garde—but bring water, go early, and take it slow. It’s so worth it for the view and the architecture.
• Take the bus to Prophète Beach during the week. Less crowded, more serene. Stop for ice cream or café on the walk back and savor…
• Pop into the museums. My favorite was a square named for a U.S. journalist who defied American policy during WWII. Goosebumps. Remember, the streets are museums as well (this is a great thing all over France!)

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TL;DR: Marseille Is That Girl

She’s bold. She’s layered. She’s misunderstood.
She’s got the views and the values.
And she’ll feed you well while blowing your historical mind.

When you go, message me what foods and goodies you find. And remember: borders are arbitrary, history is rich, and Marseille is the city France doesn’t deserve—but deeply needs.