You know that stretch from the Louvre/Tuileries and Musée d’Orsay? Gorgeous, but also a total desert if you actually want to sit down with a glass of wine and a view. I’ve mapped out where to go— plus the cafés, neighborhoods, and day trips that make up my actual Paris, not the cheap guide version. Consider this the guide I wish someone had handed me.
I have lists for Paris by astrology sign (because obviously that is a thing) and I also have spots I go back to again and again. (Like yes, Notre Dame since it re-opened, you can check my tips to do this here.)
I have a hard time with “best” lists because, honestly, there is so much that is best to be discovered. Think of this as your starting guide, or a jump start for ideas. Follow your gut!
One thing that is an absolute must — and that you should build into every part of your day in Paris — is at least two hours to wander and just be. Sit at a café. Take a detour your waiter suggested. Spend too long looking at perfumes, scarves, or a piece of art that stops you cold. Draw in a park you feel compelled toward.
Paris teaches us all one important lesson: to be.
These are the places I tell my friends — and the strangers they send my way lol — to visit. You can find me at all of these. And as with anything I share: be respectful. Watch your volume, the clock as in how long you spend there (don’t table hog a small business) and watch the pushiness (I know YOU would never 😉 If a space you want to experience is full, wander. I promise you will find something nearby that you love.
This Paris guide, like all travel lists, is a starting point. You will find places and people meant for you, that will make your trips — which are, after all, the days of your life — sing. Just be open.
Remember: travel is yes for the sites you must see, but there is so much good that hasn’t been written down yet, waiting for you to find. Just because the New York Times says something is the best café in Paris (and it may be alright) doesn’t mean it’s your best. There are lots of bests. The only ones that matter are the ones you love. Find them. Cuz they want to find you too.
The Best Cafés in Paris Worth Your Time
(Not necessarily famous but practical gems — that’s the point. Sometimes it’s just the best cafe in a sea of nothingness lol. Sometimes they are actually the best)
Le Frégate — This one is practical: you are here for the location and the view – and likely to take a break lol. Sit outside. You are across from the Louvre and the Tuileries, and next to the Musée d’Orsay. You’ve been walking a lot and need a second. A perfect spot for a coffee, a glass of wine, or a crêpe and a recharge. This area of the Left Bank doesn’t have many casual options, and while many love Le Voltaire for dinner, a particularly rude host/staff vibe has kept me from returning. Le Frégate is the hidden gem you need to know when you’re museum-hopping through the 6th and 7th arrondissements. (Right Bank is another story — lots of gems there so a bit easier, this area is a bit of desert at times.)
Café Nuances — One of the most beautiful cafés in Paris, full stop. The owner is wonderfully warm. If you’re near Place Vendôme, Palais Garnier, or doing the Saint-Honoré shopping stretch, you must stop in. It is stunning, the coffee is fabulous, and the love they have for what they do shows in everything.
Chez Mademoiselle — This Marais café is beyond delicious, beyond charming, and full of locals who know good food and good atmosphere. It has the best chocolate mousse (avec Chantilly, of course) and it’s where I learned how to debone a fish. Easier than it sounds, I promise. It’s everything I thought Paris cool and delicious would be.
Atelier P1 — Arguably the most interesting bread in Paris. No baguette — which tells you everything. They also have savory and sweet pastries that will make you rearrange your entire morning. Worth every detour.
P1 Bouche — My favorite lunch spot in Montmartre, but shhhh — it’s a locals’ place, well off the tourist path. Delicious, charming, très local, très French. Beautiful vegetarian options. It’s the restaurant built from Atelier P1 breaded goodness. (Yes, I have the tote lol.)
HIRU Paris Montmartre — Sleek, with incredible cocktails, creative small plates, and real charm. Busy, but not tourist-swamped. Enjoy every second.
Best Foodie Spots in Paris
(Beyond the cafés above, and of course, Les Deux Magots, which is my literary favorite.)
Stohrer — The oldest pâtisserie in Paris, and one of the most delicious. Gorgeous space, and the savories are just as impressive as the sweets. Go for me.
Le Boulanger de la Tour — Incredible baguette and pastries, but honestly it’s their jam that keeps me coming back across town. I cannot explain it further. You just have to go. Oh, and as it’s on the Seine, just out of the main tourist drag, so your spot to post up with the treats is easy. It’s from the famed restaurant La Tour d’Argent, so yes, its that good.
Épicerie at Le Bon Marché — There’s the one in the 7th, but I’ll tell you: the location in the 16th has a better selection and significantly fewer tourists. Perfect for picnic supplies, and for bringing things home as gifts. Plus, the area here is charming to explore and the Monoprix nearby always has the best stuff lol (it’s where a lot of right wing politicians have headquarters so know that as well.)
Best Museums in Paris You Might Not Know
(After you’ve done all the major ones — and there are a lot)
Paris City Museum — Musée Carnavalet — My favorite museum to return to again and again. From the stunning entrance to extraordinary exhibits covering thousands of years of Parisian history — including Gertrude Stein’s desk — to the garden you will linger in far longer than planned. It also has the most gorgeous museum gift shop I’ve ever seen, worth its own photos. And it’s free. Because Paris. (That revolution keeps on giving.)
Musée Gustave Moreau — That staircase. Those enormous windows. You never need a reason to explore the 9th arrondissement, and when you step back out onto those beautiful streets after visiting his space, you may find yourself quietly reconsidering your art career and life choices. (There’s a reason it’s the image to my news site on IG: the.eye.news.)
Air France Museum — Random, yes lol. But the space is incredible and entirely worth the unexpected experience. The historical uniforms – from France’s most famous clothing designers – will have you ooing and aahing. Plus, historical stemware and place settings, and old advertising posters, and even pilot uniforms will have you dreaming of flight with France’s national airline (and also wondering how bad current service can be when we had this.) It is out by the airport, and I know, who wants to go there when your’e not flying lol, but it really is that special. Plus, the gift shop has so many goodies.
Musée de Montmartre —It’s like a large house because, yes, it was actually where many great painters and writers lived back in the day. The gardens are a wonder, and worth having coffee or a bite at to extend your time. I mean, if Monet hung here and got inspiration and sleep, maybe you should spend some time lingering? The collection is superb and they always have thoughtful, cool exhibits. It’s also not overwhelming in size, so makes a nice stop at the top of the hill.
Best Neighborhoods to Explore in Paris
Place du Tertre / Top of Montmartre — One of the most iconic spots in Paris, and still worth it, even though the crowds are there. Grab a hot chocolate (no matter the time of year) or a vin chaud in winter at Place du Tertre and wander. Drink in hand, take in the artists and the gorgeous square, then make your way to the foot of Sacré-Cœur and sit. Unless it’s raining — in which case, grab a seat at any café around the Place, order a verre (glass of wine), and enjoy the rain and people watching and a gorgeous Paris square like people have done for centuries. I suggest going first thing in the morning, to get it without the crowds so you can really enjoy it, or after sunset to again enjoy the dreamy square.
Canal Saint-Martin — Most visitors wander the Marais, and I get it — solid. But for a Paris neighborhood that feels discovered rather than curated, wander toward Canal Saint-Martin and explore. You’ll find excellent bao spots and charming old cafés with no pretense and real local flavor. Amazing small shops and a feel of Paris as it used to be. And if it’s warm — even if you need a jacket — grab a bottle of wine and sit along the canal with a friend. This is what we do here.
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont — This park is incredible, with hilly terrain, massive old trees, and the feeling of a rugged city park in the best possible way. It reminds me of New York, but better — the Paris version. Not touristy at all. Grab something for a picnic, explore the area, and when evening comes, head to Rosa Bonheur here (yes, there’s another location by the Seine) for a great time ahead. You’re also close to Belleville, which leads me to…
Belleville — Paris as artists and real life actually live it. Tons of wonderful cafés, stunning views of the Eiffel Tower (shoutout to my first Paris person for bringing me here for the Fête Nationale), and incredible small restaurants — including some of the best Chinese food in the city. For café wandering, bar hopping, and genuine neighborhood life, this is it.
La Javelle — If you’re here in summer, go for an outdoor hang exactly like the locals do.
Rue Montorgueil — Near the Sentier neighborhood, this legendary Paris street is one I return to day or night. Full of cafés and actual French people — not touristy, yet close to the Marais and just across from Saint-Germain. There are also several cinemas nearby, making it a perfect before or after spot. Bustling at any hour, with so much around it depending on where your day takes you.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés — Cliché for a reason lol. Wander the little streets for wonderful independent shops and quiet local cafés. My favorite neighborhood for this, and a constant gem. While I adore Les Deux Magots for breakfast, it is overpriced, and unless you’re as literary-obsessed as I am, not entirely necessary at all. The future artists are finding inexpensive gems and local spots anyway — walk and wander, and you may just find the next de Beauvoir or Hemingway. The area around Le Bon Marché has so many great little spots, small cheese shops and stores and cafés.
Best Markets, Parks & Gardens in Paris
Hint: All neighborhoods have small Jardins (gardens), some just the size of a building, and they are worth enjoying. An impromptu picnic or just a place for a chat with a friend and to write in a journal or take a pause, find ones you love and keep going back. That’s how you make the best of Paris.
Parc Georges-Brassens — Has a used book flea market every weekend and it is a must. Yes, mostly in French, but you’ll find English books, some art, and more. Under a covered roof, it’s all the vibe. And its locals at this spot so doubt you will find a tourist here. Gem!
Parc Monceau — One of the most charming parks in Paris, with little bridges, water features, Greco-Roman columns, and lawns made for picnics. My favorite small park in the city, and worth every step in the 8th arrondissement. It’s also where the first hot air balloon took flight — see if you can find the plaque. A gem for reading, catching up with friends, or lingering with someone you love. (And that should happen.)
Marais: My Fav Secret Garden — there is a secret garden that is my fav for after I’ve gotten my L’As du Falafel (a must.) If you are looking at L’As you turn right and walk on the same side of the street. About 10ish businesses later (after some delicious bakeries) there is an opening that looks like a building entry way but you will see it’s an opening to a garden. Go back there. And if you continue past that initial opening and walk to the left, an opening garden delight awaits. Enjoy!
Best Views of Paris (Not just the Eiffel Tower)
- Steps of Sacré-Cœur – day and night
- Belleville (underrated, genuinely stunning, day and night)
- Top of the Arc de Triomphe (so, so good)
- Tour Montparnasse — Yes, it’s an eyesore from the outside. But, it gives an incredible panoramic view of Paris from the top. There are also yoga classes up there, so check the schedule.
- Restaurant Le Tour d’Argent — 444 years old this year. Yeah, that good. And gorgeous.
Best Day Trips from Paris
Fontainebleau — Yes, the château, but the forest means extraordinary long hikes. The train from Paris is direct and easy. The town is small and lovely — wander, have lunch, then take the train back. Imagine who sat and wandered where you are now.
Amboise — Also known as da Vinci’s resting place. Enough said. The town itself is what I’m pointing you toward. The Château d’Amboise is also extraordinary — including da Vinci’s famous double helix staircase, which is genuinely one of the most beautiful staircases in existence — but the point is to wander and enjoy. If you’re overnight, do both. If day-tripping, just be there fully.
Chantilly — The best whipped cream of my life was here, because it was invented here. That alone. Beyond.
Versailles — Yes, the château, because there is so much to explore and you want to savor it, and it’s cliché for a reason lol. Just doing the Petit Trianon and grounds is half a day. So, I suggest doing either the main house and grounds or the Petit Trianon and grounds, plus lunch somewhere on site. Then spend the rest of the afternoon in town. Versailles has charming shops, lovely cafés, and delicious restaurants – and yes, other museums. The train back to Paris runs constantly — so do it all leisurely. Walk around, go to the local shops. It’s one of the toniest towns near Paris, and market days are extraordinary, so check if one falls when you visit.
Giverny — The train goes to Vernon-Giverny, and the town of Vernon itself should not be missed (here is my guide to visit!) Spend time wandering: explore the small shops, the old church, walk along the Seine. Yes, Monet’s house is the thing — and it’s wonderful — but Vernon is a small-town charmer in its own right. If Monet chose to live nearby, that tells you something.
Château de Chenonceau — Its history with France’s queens and royal mistresses is legendary, as is its use as a hospital during both World Wars. Built over water, the mysteries of this space haven’t been fully revealed — but you will feel them. My favorite château, and a genuine wow.
Auvers-sur-Oise — Where Van Gogh spent his final months painting feverishly before he died. You can see all of it, including his burial site. Walking through town, you’ll recognize scenes from his paintings — because they are here. I sat at the café across from the train station for a glass of wine before heading back, listening to locals gather, and it was one of those quietly perfect travel moments.
Amiens — An adorable waiter told me to go here (wink) and it is charming, romantic, and completely untouristy. They have their own bread — a ficelle — and their own biscuit d’Amiens for something sweeter. The floating gardens, Les Hortillonnages, are not to be missed, and the 13th-century cathedral is extraordinary.
Chartres — If you can, go in the days after Ash Wednesday, when the historic floors are uncovered in the morning and you can explore the labyrinth. My favorite church in France for its history, and where Joseph Campbell spent significant time — so yes, magic is present. You will feel it.
Deauville and Trouville — For a beach day trip, the way Parisians do it. The architecture is stunning, the towns are adorable, and the film festival energy never fully leaves Deauville. A lovely day or weekend trip.
Wine Country Day Trip from Paris — Yes to Champagne (that’s Reims), but I say go to Burgundy (Bourgogne), home to France’s most sought-after wines. So many small towns to choose from, and if you’re unsure, Dijon or Beaune (my guide to it!) are both perfect – plus they have amazing mustards! That small-town charm plus exceptional wine combination is exactly what you came for. But I say, pick some small town off the train and wander and enjoy.
If You Only Have One Day in Paris…
Wake up and wander to a nearby café. Eat whatever you want. People-watch. Admire the architecture. Enjoy the pace of your morning.
Then walk wherever you feel inclined. Take a left or a right. Stare at the buildings. Head somewhere you want to be — a museum, a neighborhood, a park.
For me, if it’s a Saturday, Sunday, or market day, I am entirely about a flea market. In Paris, that’s Vanves — but also wherever the vide-greniers listings show a pop-up market near where I want to be. Then meet a friend for dinner and drinks, usually at a local café — mine or theirs — because in Paris, it’s one of life’s real pleasures to have a place that becomes yours. A Cheers, if you will. If you’re traveling, I suggest going back somewhere more than once. Returning makes you a regular, and that creates real bonds.
Wandering home — walking if at all possible, which in Paris it is usually — with a day well spent and some wine, champagne, or Calvados (apple brandy) for company, enjoying the beauty of Paris at night. That is your constant companion here, and it never gets old.
This list is my cheat sheet for friends — which you are! — so use it when you’re stuck, or wanting something new, or even just wanting to feel Paris. Have a wonderful time, and remember: leave room to wander and simply be.
Bisous, mes stars. 💋
Travel, like astrology, is really about one thing: knowing yourself better by the end than you were at the beginning. Paris has a way of doing that faster than most places — but honestly, so does anywhere you show up with intention.
If you want the astrology side of all of this — Paris by sign, chart readings, and what your chart says about where you’re meant to go next — you’re already in the right place. Have a look around.
And if you want help planning your next trip — Paris, or anywhere else — I do that too. Itineraries, insider knowledge, and yes, we can absolutely factor in your chart. [Book a Travel Planning Session →]
À bientôt💋
Leah
Wants to know. Has some questions. Very Sag. Always up for pizza. Planning several trips. Big fan of joy. Wants to talk about it. All of them. Is sure we can figure out this whole living thing. Is rooting for you.
